DeVito's South Beach: Unimpressive opening  

I live a couple of blocks away from Mr DeVito’s restaurant. Saw it being built with some anticipation since South of Fifth there are only two very standard Italian restaurants. Less walking, comfort and great Italian food. What else is there to ask? At the entrance there were 5 hostesses asking if I had a reservation -which I did. It took them a few minutes to decipher the computer system that carried my name. I was taken to my table, very small for two. Not being tall I sank on my chair but was at a manageable level. The menu had some red center circling the menu vaguely reminding you of a New York Diner experience. Some of the seats like mine had their plastic still on. Not a good omen. Wine was promptly and attentively served. The Caesar Salad and the zuppa de pesce appeared much too promptly. And so was their taste. Lettuce was refrigerator temperature with sauce globbing on it and with totally unremarkable taste. Some overcooked chicken swam in it. The zuppa was technically something out of a can, but thicker and saltier. Totally inedible. The Bolognese was so greasy and salty that would obliterate the tongue of serious anchovy eaters. The linguine was way thick-spaghetti like-but al dente with clams that had left their shells along the way. I mentioned my comments on leaving, accompanied by some other irate customers and was told to come in a few weeks when things would be better. Fat chance! I am truly surprised at a perfectionist and talented actor permitting such a travesty of food to be presented in his name.

DeVito's South Beach is located at 150 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, FL 33139.

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