The Changing Face of South Beach

“I’m going to bet you that when we’re done—I don’t know when that will be—historians will identify this as the most significant and rapid transformation of an American city.’‘

Former Miami City Commissioner Johnny Winton (05/22/05)

Ask any New Yorker to point out his cityscape in a line-up and he can do it in a heartbeat.  The familiar silhouettes of the Empire State and Chrysler buildings are recognizable even to people who’ve never ventured there. 

Miami Beach, in contrast, with the exception of its off-limits signature deco buildings, changes daily, mirroring Miami proper just across the bay.  And even those historic buildings, if cited as uninhabitable, are not immune to the wrecking ball (case in point: the 1915 Coral House, one of the first structures on Miami Beach, recently shelled out and converted into a condo complex).  Much like the people who live here, the city is in a constant state of self-redefinition.  The stagnating economy and the hoardes of unrented condos may have stilled the whirring of the cranes downtown, but the Beach continues to transform itself: what was once a familiar landmark and the stuff of local tradition is routinely discarded, reshaped, or built anew. 

Hang-outs like Rascal House and upscale and posh eateries like Pacific Time are buzzing one moment and boarded up the next.  Gone are local hotspots like Chocolate on Española Way, nightclubs Opium and Privé, and FYE, a huge CD/DVD store with live deejays at the corner of Fifth and Collins.  Rising real estate costs and property insurance rates have made much prime commercial space unavailable to all but the largest corporate entities. 

It’s not all doom and gloom on the Beach, however: some businesses are upgrading and expanding: Books & Books on Lincoln Road recently moved into an adjacent building, greatly expanding its retail space, while the Clevelander, an Ocean Drive hotel and outdoor bar, has been undergoing a seemingly endless renovation, the completion date for which has been repeatedly pushed back.

All this dust begs the question, “Where are we headed?” Is our tropical Greenwich Village turning into Times Square?

Here’s a closer look at some of South Beach’s latest modifications…you be the judge.

WELCOME TO SOUTH BEACH—GOT GROCERIES?

The Publix complex, still under construction, now greets beachgoers coming in on the MacArthur Causeway.

How did you used to know when you’d arrived in South Beach? It used to be seeing local erotica retailer, The Pleasure Emporium, jockeying for attention on the north side of Fifth Street just behind the Miami Beach sign, a not-so-subtle reminder that South Beach itself was a pleasure emporium.  However, now when you coast into the city on the MacArthur Causeway, the object that will be commanding your attention is the monstrous Publix megaplex, whose sheer bulk has stolen the thunder of the surrounding businesses.  What subtle message is at work here? “When the going gets tough, the tough go shopping?” 

Barnes & Noble, Abercrombie & Fitch, Borders, Crate & Barrel, and several department stores all thumbed their noses at the prospect of moving in, citing the transient tourist population as the reason for the lack of enthusiasm.  Sharing the space with Publix will be Best Buy, Staples, TJ Maxx and Ross Dress for Less.

Meanwhile, in ironic defiance, just across Alton Road, the empty building that once housed the South Beach Community Hospital presently sits in disarray, even as less unsightly structures nearby make way for change.

THE NEW, IMPROVED SOUTH POINTE PARK

Yesterday, March 22, marked the occasion of the re-opening of South Pointe Park.  For 2 years, this 17.5 acre park located at the southern tip of South Beach was closed off to the public, as beeping bulldozers and trucks reshaped the landscape, at a cost of $22.4 million.

It used to be a peaceful place with walkways and palm trees, where you could sit back and watch the cruise ships come and go through Government Cut.  Now, it’s going to be…a peaceful place with walkways and palm trees, where you can still sit back and gaze at the same cruise ships.  However, it will be a lot jazzier than its more casual former incarnation: the promenade will now be raised and curvier, and the palm trees, rearranged.  In addition, the space will be graced with 18 multicolored light towers along its walkway, as well as glitzy fountain jets and a rooftop observation deck with cruise ship features.

According to City Manager Jorge M. Gonazales, “The rebirth of this park is a symbol of the ongoing renaissance of our city.  Every aspect of South Pointe Park represents a combined effort of
the City and our residents. It’s a gift, really, to residents and visitors alike.”

Whatever the topography, this dog-friendly spot by the water provides some much needed relief from the ever encroaching city around it.  Moreover, its reopening means that you will once again be able to explore the circumference of the island on foot, starting on the south side of the MacArthur Causeway and working your way around to the Atlantic side, with nary a dent on your rollerblades.

LINCOLN ROAD GETS A FACE-LIFT

South Beach developer Robert Wennett, in collaboration with Swiss artist Rene Buser and Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron, has major plans for the old Sun Trust building on Lincoln Road between Lenox and Alton Road, as well as the adjoining lot.

They’re in the midst of converting the structure into 50,000 square feet of retail and 100,000 of creative office space for the likes of Nickelodeon, MTV, and other innovative businesses.  The estimated $70 million project will also feature a spa, a rooftop restaurant sporting 360 degree views, and a few penthouses, to boot.

Meanwhile, the lot next door will be transformed into an elaborate “parking sculpture”, an open-air garage with floors up to 30 feet in height, where cars and people can party together above Lincoln Road.

It promises to be dazzling, albeit at a sacrifice of existing elbow room on South Beach’s great pedestrian street.  To see more of their vision, click here.

BOARDWALK TODAY—BEACHWALK TOMORROW

Miami Beach’s wooden beachside boardwalk, running from 21st to 47th Streets, has for years been the spot for a cacophony of observant Jews, joggers, tourists, sunburned ne’er-do-wells and homeless felines.  All the while, due to space constrictions, bicycles have been verboten to all but the enthusiastic security detail, who ride up and down, ensuring that everybody else plays well.  South of the wooden portion is a winding cement path, known as a beachwalk; it runs from Fifth Street up to 21st.

Soon, however, the boardwalk will be history, as the cement portion will be extended to Bandshell Park at 87th Street in North Beach, enabling bikers, pedestrians and roller bladers to avoid the Collins Avenue traffic.  The project will be completed in sections, starting with the first two blocks, and the section behind the Eden Roc Hotel, near the end.

The cited benefits, in addition to bicycle accessibility, include security, aesthetics, and refurbished lighting that won’t confuse nesting sea turtles.

Details are still sketchy, and according to reports in the field, construction is slow and sporadic.

KEEPING THE SPIRIT IN TACT

While South Beach has had many faces since its inception: bootlegger’s haven, retirement villa, edgy bohemian enclave, bling-bling vitrine and elite boutique retreat, a pervading sense of unapologetic joie-de-vivre has managed to stay afloat here.  However, as the landscape becomes more crowded, Disneyfied and homogenous, and mom and papi businesses give way to chain storefronts indistinguishable from those of many other cities, the task of keeping South Beach’s indie spirit alive becomes all the more difficult.  What can we do to keep it alive?

Related Links: • Miami's New Skyline Miami Herald • Miami Building Boom: See It Like A Native Related Categories: Real Estate Miami: Local News, Douglas Eames is a freelance writer, homespun philosopher and budget bon vivant who divides his time between Southern California and South Beach. See more articles by Doug. See more articles by Doug Was This Post Helpful? Please Share It With Others! Tweet

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